Guyanese Fried Chicken
Every Friday afternoon for the past 6 months, I’ve been taking a sabbath, an idea I got from an orthodox Jewish former colleague. My version of a sabbath amounts to effectively turning off all communications and internet activity for 24 hours.
The results have been mixed. Sometimes the boredom is unreal, other times, magical things happen.
For this Friday’s sabbath, I made my way to Kaieteur Kitchen, a Guyanese restaurant in Elephant and Castle. Truth be told, I was a little lonely and wasn’t there just for the food. I wanted to say hi to Auntie Faye, the head chef and owner, but she wasn’t there.
Not giving up, I sat down for a meal. Fried chicken, with a side of stewed aubergine, rice and peas.
I’m from North Carolina which, despite its name, is in the deep south of the US. Fried chicken runs in my blood. Growing up, we must have had 12 separate chains in our town serving the stuff.
The fried chicken at Kaieteur Kitchen is unlike anything I’ve ever tasted. Of course it’s crispy. Of course it’s hot, the little steam bubbles popping out with searing heat as you bite into it.
But it’s the seasoning too, some kind of a creole or Cajun spice blend. I taste paprika, garlic, onion powder, oregano on the chicken itself. In an odd way this takes me back to the deep south. To the can of cajun seasoning on the counter at Bojangles.
And my word the sauce. It’s a signature “fruity” sauce comprised of a uniquely Guyanese flavor mix of herbs and spices. Think ginger, garlic, mango pulp, five spice powder, soy sauce and orange juice blended together to create a rich umami sauce with an almost smokey flavor and a vinegary aftertaste.
I douse the chicken in the sauce. Fresh out of the fryer, the pieces are so hot I can barely hold them. My hands are on fire but I let crispy chicken sear my skin. It’s 3pm on a Friday and the whole square is quiet, before the storm of customers likely to appear later in the evening.
I lose track of time. My head is buzzing from the heat of the spices combine with the temperature of the chicken. I feel like I’m in the fryer and I love it.
I go to a lot of social dinners these days but there is something uniquely special about my Friday sabbath eating alone. And, there is something uniquely special about the fried chicken at Kaieteur Kitchen.
I sit back, feeling as if steam is coming out of my ears after re-emerging from the fried chicken induced trance.
I look and ask “Where’s Auntie Faye, is she coming any time soon?
“She’ll be back” responds the woman.
So will I.